By MOHD IZHAM BIN HASHIM
KOTA KINABALU: As the month of May unfolds across Sabah, the air comes alive with the rhythms of gong music, the warmth of reunion, and the comforting scent of cooking fires. Kaamatan, the harvest festival of the Kadazan-Dusun people, is more than a celebration—it’s a sacred gathering of land, legacy, and food.
For Chef Melvin Gatu, Kaamatan represents an invitation to reimagine tradition and share the deep, soulful flavours of Sabah with a new generation of cooks and foodies. “Kaamatan isn’t just about tradition—it’s about remembering where we come from,” Melvin says. “And for me, that journey always starts in the kitchen.”
A Kota Kinabalu native, Melvin’s culinary journey began in the local tamu markets, where as a boy, he accompanied his mother, captivated by the vibrant colours of turmeric, the fragrance of curry leaves, and the rhythm of cleavers on cutting boards. By the age of seven, he cooked his first dish: chicken curry infused with lemongrass. “My mom taught me everything,” he recalls. “She was my leading inspiration.”
By 14, Melvin was certain that he wanted to become a chef.
After completing his studies in UiTM, Melvin began his career in 2009. He honed his skills for over a decade in prestigious kitchens across Kuala Lumpur and the Middle East before returning to Sabah in 2022 with a clear mission—to bring the rich culinary heritage of his homeland to the world.
This Kaamatan, Melvin unveils two signature dishes, each grounded in Sabahan ingredients but adapted for modern kitchens. These dishes aren’t just meals—they are stories told on a plate, rewritten for today’s table.
His Nasi Goreng Losun Ikan Masin features beras tadong, a black hill rice with a nutty aroma and striking hue. Combined with crispy salted fish from Kudat and wild losun spring onions, the dish sings with rustic heartiness. A dash of Maggi CukupRasa layers the flavours with umami depth, eliminating the need for an overwhelming array of spices.
For the second dish, Ikan Basung Goreng Marinated with Tuhau—a local wild ginger—Melvin transforms it into a festival centrepiece. Paired with Maggi Sambal Tumis Kantan, it’s a perfect blend of bold flavours, aroma, and spice.
Central to Melvin’s philosophy is a simple belief: everyone should be able to cook the food they grew up with. With today’s fast-paced lifestyles, traditional recipes can feel daunting—especially for younger generations unfamiliar with the “old ways.”
That’s where Maggi bridges the gap. “Everything gets easier with Maggi,” he says. “The simpler the cooking process, the more people can enjoy eating and cooking Sabahan cuisine.”
With products like CukupRasa and Sambal Tumis, home cooks can achieve authentic Sabahan flavours without hours of preparation or hard-to-find ingredients.
He recounted the painstaking search for the right ingredients in KL needed to prepare an array of Sabah cuisine he was promoting through social media – something that was never a problem back home.
“Beyond the kitchen, Melvin’s award-winning career extends into social media, where his engaging vlogs on Sabah’s delicacies have garnered thousands of dedicated followers on Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube.
As Melvin embraces his role as the culinary ambassador for Sabah, both in his kitchen and online, he often reflects on the roots of his passion. “I’d say my growing awareness for local cuisine began in 2019 when I started building my brand even while I was still in Kuala Lumpur,” he said, noting that it was in 2022 that he started gaining online recognition after he moved back to Sabah.
Melvin’s collaborations with Maggi are about making Sabah’s flavours more accessible, joyful, and shareable. Through his vlogs and recipe workshops, he’s become a cultural ambassador—not just for the food, but for the values of resourcefulness, resilience, and pride in local identity.
His mission? To make Sabahan dishes as beloved and celebrated as any other cuisine in Malaysia—and one day, the world.
“I dream of walking into a restaurant in London or Tokyo that proudly displays authentic Sabah delicacies” he smiles. “Why not?”
As the Kaamatan festivities unfold—meals shared, songs sung, harvests honoured—Melvin reminds us that the heart of heritage isn’t just in preserving the past, but in innovating and sharing it with others. Because every dish tells a story—and this Kaamatan, that story tastes unmistakably like home.
